Archive for the ‘Dordogne’ Category

If anything was going to showcase France’s beautiful landscape, then it’s Le Tour de France, the three-week extended tourism advert where the cyclist that comes first doesn’t necessarily win the event.

The race begin in 1903 as an idea by French auto journalist Geo Lefevre. Sixty cyclists started, only 21 finished. Yet the six stage race generated amazement and admiration, capturing the nation’s affections.

Ever since, the French people have embraced Le Tour for putting their homes on the world map. Now, some 15 million people spectate while 4 million watch on television.

This year, the race spans 3431 kilometres of mountain climbs, hairpin bends, city roads, down hill racing and just two rest days, passing through beautiful locations including the Vendee, Brittany, Rhone-Alpes and Midi-Pyrenees. It ends, as usual with a nail biting finish along the Champs-Elysees in Paris.

The course changes every year and while it may not be passing directly through the Dordogne region in 2011, it has done in the past. This year, just scrapes past Aquitaine, flowing through Super-Besse Sancy and Murat-Le-Quaire in neighbouring Auvergne.

Regardless, the people of the Dordogne still celebrate this national event. The day starts with anticipation and ends with parties going on long into the night. No matter where you are watching, you cannot fail to get caught up in Le Tour mania. Here are some tips on enjoying Le Tour.

Firstly, understand the rules. Teams of riders, numbering around twenty cyclists, compete to win the various stages. The race is essentially a time trial, where there could be deductions for passing certain points first or for “finishing well.” In fact, over the race’s history, seven cyclists have won the overall event without having won a single, individual stage.

Complimentary competitions run in parallel, where riders are awarded with coveted coloured jerseys. The yellow jersey (maillot jaune) is worn by the overall, fastest cyclist thus far. The green (vert) jersey is awarded to the cyclist with the most points, earned by winning stages, sprints and time trials.

The white and red spotty jersey (maillot a pois rouges) is worn by the cyclist who reaches hilly and mountainous summits first. The white jersey is given to the fastest young rider.

That’s the race basics.

Understanding some of the terms you’ll hear is also useful. Le peloton, translates as the bullet but is the term used to describe the pack of cyclists. Combativitie is ‘sporting’ aggression. Contre-la-montre is a time trial, race against the clock. Domestiques: the entourage, if you like, who look after a team. Finally, Lantern Rouge, the ‘red light,’ is the last person to finish the race.

Some phrases to shout out as the peloton passes include “Allez!” – “Go!” “X est le meilleur” - “X is the winner” and “Vous allez les ecraser!” – “You’re going to crush them!”

If you are going to see the race at some point, then know that people will camp out for days to get the best seats, so get there early. A sleeping bag might be a good idea. Maybe hire a car to get you to some of the more remote, mountain locations to which there is no public transport.

Spectators at the mountain tops provide newspaper for cyclists before they commence their descent. Travelling at such speeds, the cyclists get so cold that they use newspaper to protect their chests and stuff it inside their shirts for warmth.

The cyclists will pass by quickly, but, never fear, the publicity caravan (aka the caravan of swag) follows, dispensing free goodies to everyone. These include sweets, chocolate, hats and cheese. 

Bring a picnic lunch and make a day of it and enjoy the social element. Alternatively, find a local bar with a TV and watch with other like-minded cycling fans. Who knows, you may even make a few new friends along the way.

If you weren’t bothered about the race before, you’ll be amazed how engrossed will find yourself; a true convert after your first Tour de France experience.

The Dordogne is one of the most popular destinations for cycling holidays for a huge variety of reasons. The long, quiet winding country roads, breathtaking rural surroundings and forestry – plus the perfect weather – are just a few of the reasons why casual cyclists love to rent cottages in the region.

Many local businessmen have taken advantage of the popularity of cycling through the Dordogne by opening up cycle hire shops in various regions of South-West France. No matter where you are based, there is no excuse not to enjoy a bike ride along the beautiful country lanes, even if you don’t bring a bike of your own.  

One route which has been popular with cycling holiday organisers for many years begins in the vibrant town of Souillac, which is best known for its vast range of monuments including Benedictine Abbey, which is sometimes known as Abbey Sainte Marie.

The Abbey was originally built in the 12th century but has severely battered by a number of wars in the region. Tourists can enjoy a number of fantastically crafted Romanesque sculptures within its walls. Before setting on their way, tourists may enjoy ‘the little train’ which offers a guided tour of all the historic buildings and monuments based in town.  

Cycling from Souillac, there is the option of two routes which provide a highly enjoyable day of cycling for tourists hoping to see the sights of the Dordogne.

The first route takes you away from the hustle-bustle of Souillac towards the river Dordogne, where tourists might fancy a dip to cool down or a picnic on the riverbanks to refresh themselves if it is a particularly hot summer day.

Whether going it alone or taking part in an organised cycling holiday, tourists are likely to be stunned by the gorgeous routes through the back roads surrounding the river.

From there, tourists can enjoy an stunningly secluded route through the small rural towns of Carlux and St Nathalene, before arriving at Sarlat in the east of the Dordogne region.

History fans might prefer an alternative to Sarlat via the popular castle Chateau de Fenelon in Sainte Mondane. The historic building houses a fascinating collection of armour and weaponry used in wars as far back as the 15th century.  

The castle is surrounded by many restaurants and is within close quarters of a few other small museums which display incredible artefacts dating as far back as the 1400s.

Sarlac is about 30km west of Souillac which is the ideal distance for many cyclists to enjoy a whole day of sightseeing.  Once tourists arrive  there should be plenty of opportunities to sample the local cuisine either at the local market or the range of restaurants.

There are plenty of arranged cycling holidays available but those who enjoy the freedom and the thrill of exploring new places may be better off taking advantage of the competitive cycle hire rates from the shops dotted around the Dordogne.

Whatever option is right for you, there will be no doubt that a cycling holiday in Souillac will be full of fun and adventure.

The soaring temperatures and the dazzling countryside make the Dordogne an ideal destination to enjoy a round of golf. Golfers who are looking to enjoy a few rounds abroad would be hard-pressed to find a more luxurious region with such a wide range of courses so close to the British Isles.

Those who are enjoying a golfing holiday in the Dordogne are sure to love a day trip to the Golf de Lolivarie which is based just 25 miles east of Bergerac Airport.

The club enjoys a fine reputation for its gorgeous scenery and challenging holes. The 18-hole course is set in stunning countryside and at 5893 metres is the third longest of the seven golf courses in the region.

It is the variety of activities available for golfers to enjoy after their round that sets the Golf de Lolivarie club apart from the rest. Many golfers choose to enjoy the food and drink available at the courses ’19th hole’ bar. Its location within the heart of the small town of Siorac-en-Perigord also means that golfers have access to a range of activities minutes from the course.

The course is located in the heart of many medieval markets where tourists are able to sample the beautiful local cuisine. It is also surrounded by many abbeys, castles and prehistoric sites, which would be a sightseers delight.

Another nearby attraction is the wine regions of Bordeaux, which surround the regions where the Garonne and Dordogne rivers meet. Many companies offer tours of the world famous vineyards where many famous wines are produced. An evening of wine tasting could prove to be the perfect end to an enjoyable round of golf for those enjoy a tipple in the evening.

All of the courses in region including Golf de Lolivarie have recently signed up to a new scheme aiming to encourage golfers to explore more areas of the Dordogne.

Those who decide to enjoy multiple rounds of golf through out the different courses in the area will now be able to enjoy some significant savings thanks to the Golf Pass Dordogne scheme. After paying full price for their first round, golfers who pick up the pass will receive a discount of up to 30 per cent on any further rounds they decide to play during their stay in the Dordogne.

The card is only valid for two rounds per course so that golfers will benefit from visiting other courses in the area and sampling the local produce there as well.

Monestier-Dordogne is one of the more popular golfing destinations in the Dordogne but those who pick up the golf pass from staff will have a reason to visit less frequented towns such as Vitrac-Sarlat, Siorac-en-Perigord and Mouleydier.

These are all homes to nine-hole golf courses but each have a surrounding community which is underrated by the majority of tourists. No matter luxuries they choose to take advantage of following their round, there is no doubt that Golf de Lolivarie is a golfer’s paradise.

Even for those who may not be keen for the sport, the range of beautiful scenery and variety of surrounding landmarks make it one of the highlights of the region.

In the west of the Dordogne lies one of France’s most well-known towns, Bergerac. Famed for its wine production, the town’s gentle countryside, picturesque old town and gourmet specialities are sure to please visitors from all walks of life.

Often called the gateway to the Perigord region, Bergerac was founded in the 11th century, where a settlement grew up around the town’s castle (though no trace is now in existence). It was an important town, predominantly because it had the only bridge across the Dordogne River in the whole region. Hence the settlement grew.

Wine production and exportation helped the town grow during the Middle Ages and is still an extremely important, lucrative industry today. You’ll find tours and tastings across Bergerac throughout the year.

One of the biggest highlights of a trip to Bergerac is a visit to the carefully-restored old town or vielle ville. With lovely, medieval, timbered buildings, streets and quaint squares, make sure you don’t forget the camera – especially since the town recently won a ‘Best Decorated Towns and Villages’ award. 

A range of boutique shops should keep the most hardened of spendaholics happy. If shopping isn’t on the agenda, then simply spend an hour over coffee at one of the old town’s open air cafes people watching. It’s fascinating.

While you are in the old town, you must visit the Maison de Vins de Bergerac. This 12th century cloister is easily the town’s most attractive building. It was previously a monastery and apparently played a big part in the Wars of Religion.

Nowadays, it houses exhibitions which detail Bergerac’s wine heritage. In the summer, concerts take place in the vicinity and as it it such a lovely setting, enthusiasts say it’s worth going if you can. If you are in Bergerac in the winter, the Maison de Vins plays host to a Christmas market.

On Place de la Petit Mansion is the Musee Costi – the sculpture museum. This museum features works by Greek sculptor Constantin Papachristopoulos. He allegedly bequeathed part of his sculptures to the town on the proviso that they be on permanent display. The exhibitions take place in the old cellars of a presbytery.

Fans of old buildings might like to visit any one of Bergerac’s castles, although by far Chateau Monbazillac (see previous entry), Chateau Lanquias and Chateau Bannes are the prettiest, all looking like they belong in a fairy story.

Being so close to the river, it would be a shame not to try an water-based activity, but it need not be too strenuous. There are plenty of organised boat tours which float up the river, enabling you to enjoy the beautiful countryside from a different perspective. Experts recommend taking a trip from one of the bases further upstream to prolong the voyage.

For a change, the modern town, part of which is pedestrianised, is within walking distance. Boasting the usual array of shops and restaurants, including the famous Forum store, it’s not a bad way to wind up a visit and pick up some souvenirs.

Should you wish to stock up on some wine, the ones to look out for include Saussignac, Monbazillac and Pecharmant. 

Additionally, Bergerac’s markets are held every Wednesday and Saturday at Place Gambetta at the top of town. Both are “large and lively traditional French markets” which travel writers say should not be missed.

Those looking for a bargain should try out one of the two big shopping complexes on the outskirts of Bergerac, which boast Eleclerc and Carrefour hypermarkets. These typically offer good value for money and also dispense some of the cheapest petrol.

Encompassing medieval and modern culture, Bergerac is a great place to spend a day.

We finally have the internet set up at our little house in the Dordogne.

It was installed on Friday (17-June-11) and means that all our guests will have access to free wi-fi during their holidays.  So bring your iPhones, your iPads and your laptops… we are now online.

Orange France and France Telecom did not make this process simple.  During the past 4-5 weeks we had to go through the following:

• ordered over the phone with Orange.. everything seemed simple.  As we were not going to be down in France until after the activation date, they would send the equipment to a local newsagent that they regularly use and email me when everything was set up and sent (about 10 days).
• no email after 10 days and so I called… they said all is ok – don’t worry.
• still no email after 15 days – a few days before we left to come down to France.  They said it would all be activated on the Friday and everything is ok – don’t worry.  They gave me the address of the newsagent to collect the box(es) from.
• on our way to the house, we stopped by the newsagent in Bergerac that Orange sent the equipment to.. no record of anything.. suggested we come back on Monday.
• Monday was a bank holiday.. went to the newsagent.. closed.
• Checked our mailbox late Tuesday and we had two delivery slips from Orange.. (from 2-3 weeks ago).  Yes we should have checked our mailbox sooner.. we often forget.  But .. Orange was supposed to have shipped these to the newsagent.. oh well.
• Got the boxes from La Poste on Wednesday… nothing is working.  We call Orange tech support and they said that there is a fault on the line.  They ordered an engineer and he would resolve the issue within 3-4 days…  /sigh.
• Still no internet on the Friday so we called Orange tech support again – surely it still can’t be out.  This time the guy did a bit more investigations and voila! it is working.  He also told me that the line was activated 3 weeks ago.

So, the moral of this story?  As bad as you think BT can be sometimes… Orange France (owned by France Telecom) seems to be more than capable of outperforming them on delivering poor customer service.

The upside is that we now have internet for our visitors to use – for free.  All telephone calls are now routed via the internet too – which means that calls to landlines in most countries (UK, USA, Australia, etc) are now also free.

And if you still just want to come down to the house to get away from it all… you can still do that too.

Sarlat, full name Sarlat-la-Caneda, the capital of Perigord Noir, is widely acknowledged as being one of the most attractive towns in the Dordogne and one of the most visited in France.

A few miles north of the Dordogne River, Sarlat is an old town which boasts, like many in Aquitaine, wonderful medieval and renaissance influences. Sarlat has been awarded a three star classification by Michelin Guides, testament to its beauty. It is a lovely place to visit, no matter the season.

There are always lots of events taking place in the town. Sarlat tourism websites provide information as to the exhibitions, festivals and shows, but a typical summery itinerary might look like this (based on a Saturday visit):

Itinerary: 

Arrival: Sarlat-aficionados recommend arriving early to watch the sun rise over the yellow ochre sandstone buildings. Take in the roofs while you are looking up, a cavalcade of many fairy-tale structures that pierce the sky. Some have been tiled with an unusual lauze flat stone.

Brunch/ lunch: Saturday is market day and there are two to choose from at the city centre or at Place de la Liberte. From 8:30am you can buy (and eat) all sorts of delicious local produce: fois gras, cepe mushrooms, duck, truffles, walnuts and strawberries. Take your time browsing and sampling, pick up lunch and a coffee on the go while you’re there. 

If you visit at any other time, Place de la Liberte also holds a small food market on Wednesdays, otherwise the covered market at the Former Sainte Marie church is open every day.

After lunch: get lost, literally. Walk off lunch by exploring the maze of streets north of the cathedral and drift through the labyrinth of narrow lanes enjoying the sights, sounds and surprises that lay around each corner. The tourist information office will be able to provide you with maps and routes, if you’re not feeling too adventurous.

Admire the striking architecture along Rue des Consuls and the Catherdrale St Sacerdos (those travel experts says this is quite unexciting). Opposite the cathedral in what is generally considered to be “the town’s finest house”, Maison de La Boetie, once home to one of the town’s famous residents, Etienne de La Boetie.

Dinner: book a table at Criqquettamu’s on Rue des Armes for dinner, serving up local specialities and dishes from around the globe in a rustic setting. The menu stretches from frog’s legs to sushi.

Be entertained by the many performers who participate in Sarlat’s street theatre during the height of summer. Join the crowds just before the sun sets and marvel at the variety of spontaneous acts; you never know what’s on the bill.

Night cap: if you still don’t want to go home, then there is a nightclub, Discotheque le Griot, in Route de Souillac and plenty of bars which stay open late into the night.

Naturally this is just a suggested and brief itinerary. Sporty people might like to hear that there are lots of opportunities near Sarlat to play golf, go on countryside walks or go canoeing. Animal lovers may like to visit the nearby Aquarium or Monkey Sanctuary. Those interested in ancient art may like to see nearby cave art.

There truly is something for everyone in Sarlat. 

If you are planning on visiting Northern Dordogne, a pleasant way to spend a day would be with a trip to the quaint town of Riberac.

Dating back to the 9th century, Riberac is situated in the attractive rolling meadows and hilltop countryside of the Drone Valley through which, naturally, runs the River Dronne.

The town grew around a chateau and it is thought that it was founded by Alchier The Deaf over one thousand years ago. Sadly today, nothing of the chateau but the stables remain. The first inhabitants resided near the town’s manor house and toward the church, Notre Dame, spreading down toward the river banks. After the French revolution, the population moved to the slopes of the opposite river bank.

A famous (in France, at least) son of Riberac was Arnaut Daniel, said to the the “originator of Provencal poetry.” Born at the chateau in the 12th century, he was highly praised by Dante. His work was rediscovered in the 1940s by poet Louis Aragon who hailed him a “medieval hero.” His works, should you wish to acquaint yourself, will grace the many gift shops in the region.

Though a fairly quiet town, most claim the best day to visit is Friday, which is market day, where the town is transformed into a buzzing, exciting centre of commerce. Vendors from all over the region sell their wares here; the Riberac market is reportedly the biggest market in the Perigord region.

In addition to Friday morning’s traditional market, Riberac also boasts farmers markets every Tuesday morning in the summer and a walnut market on Fridays from October to November.

The town comprises the usual smattering of interesting shops, cafés and restaurants. The Cheval Blanc comes highly recommended: just a little way out of the town centre, the restaurant overlooks the rugby pitch, so sports fans should time their meal with a Sunday match. 

One of the most popular things to do in Riberac is a tour of the Romanesque churches. There is a standard tourist route (l’office de tourisme will be able to supply you with details), which takes you on a circuit of about 200 kilometres. It starts in the centre of town at 24600 Riberac, otherwise known as the domed Collegiate Church of Notre Dame, Riberac’s most famous landmark. 

Notre Dame, which dates back to the 11th century, was patronised predominantly by those who lived in and close to the chateau. In the 16th century, Count Odet d’Aydie and his wife Anne de Pons signed papers to transform Notre Dame into a Collegiate Church. Later, the Benedictines from the Chalard Priory took up residence in the church, having been driven out of their home by floods.

During the Wars of Religion, the church was set on fire by Hugenot troops and while the walls and bell tower were thick enough to resist the licking flames, much of the church had to be re-built. During the revolution, the lead tombs of Count Odet d’Aydie and his family were exhumed, so the metal could be used to make ammunition. The church was then reverted back to a place for Catholic worship.

These days, Notre Dame, which has been fully restored, houses plenty of art exhibitions and workshops. This summer they are showcasing South African artists, among other exhibitions. 

The route then takes you on to the Fortress Churches of Grand Brassac and of Saint Martial de Viveyrol and the Church of Bourg-du-Bost, Siorac de Riberac, St. Aulaye and finally St Andre de Double, a red sandstone church on a mound.

If churches aren’t quite your thing, there are plenty of other Drone Valley hikes and trails that have been drawn up by the Walks and Hiking group, again, details can be found at the tourist office.

Riberac is a pretty and peaceful town, the ideal spot to visit for a relaxing day. Juts make sure you pack your walking shoes!

The Dordogne is an incredibly varied region, offering attractions guaranteed to satisfy all tastes.

For those who are interested in ancient history or prehistoric art, a visit to the Grottes de Font-de-Gaume is unmissable. Situated in Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil, Font-de-Gaume is a cave through which the river once flowed, cutting through a limestone monolith which runs along what was the river valley. The entrance is 400 metres up a steep hill and the cave is obscured by trees.

Prehistoric people lived in the area at about 25,000 BC and remained there, historians believe, for about 1,000 years. Although the caves had been known to local people for centuries, they lay largely forgotten about until the early 1900s, when a discovery led to a revival of interest. 

Evidence suggests that early inhabitants lived at the mouth of the caves, no further inside, and used them for shelter against the wind and rain. These would not have been nice places in which to reside – damp, dark and quickly filled with smoke from fires.

The draw, of course, is the artwork which exists deep inside the cave. It wasn’t until 1901 that the significance of the paintings was recognised by a school teacher, Denis Peyrony, who had seen prehistoric cave paintings elsewhere. The unimaginable delay was caused by the fact that the drawings would have been pretty hard to physically see. 

The art dates back to 17,000 BC, to the Magdalenien period and many of the paintings were found by accident. One of the most famous of the “collection” – a frieze of five bison – was discovered as recently as 1966 when the cave was being cleaned.

Over 200 examples of animals and human have been polychrome painted or etched on the cave walls. More than 80 bison are depicted, hence the caves unofficial name as the cave of bison. Many animals appear: lions, deer, wolves, woolly rhinos and the cave’s natural contours were used to accentuate the design, i.e. a bump on the limestone surface may become the hump of a mammoth’s back.

What makes the drawings seem even more amazing is the fact that they were created in dark conditions, with only primitive lamp light made from burning animal fat. Some of the techniques demonstrated, such as shading and perspective, are remarkably modern.

Font de Gaume is considered the best example of polychrome painting which is open to the public. It is thought that there could be more drawings yet undiscovered in the depths of the grotto.

Grottes de Font-de-Gaume, open Sunday – Friday 9:30am to 5:30pm from 15 May to 15 September and 9:30am to 12:30pm from 16 September to 14 May.

Advance booking is essential, as only 200 people are permitted inside the cave each day (a number scientifically determined not to damage the paintings). English tours take place several times a day, though it is best to check when you book.