The Dordogne‘s most prized contribution to French high cuisine, the black Perigord truffle, has been genetically mapped.

Often called the ‘Black Diamond’, the black Perigord truffle is a local delicacy of the Dordogne region. Many of those who have been on a French holiday to the area in the winter months, during their seasonal growth period, will be familiar with the important role that the black truffle plays in the regional market. The ‘black diamond’ is so-called because some examples can fetch around £1,000 a kilogramme on the seasonal markets.

However, the truffle trade has suffered in recent years. Firstly, truffle production across the Dordogne and Perigord region has suffered dramatically over the past few decades. At the start of the 20th century the annual production was some 800 tons; today it is more like 10-20 tons. The effects of global warming and a loss of the natural habitat is often blamed for this decline. Secondly, some traders have tried to pass off the cheaper Chinese truffle variety – much more common but very similar in appearance – as the true truffles.

The new research on the genetic make up of the black truffle could, in time, provide an answer to both these troubles though.

A team of French and Italian researchers worked for five years to sequence the ”diamonds” DNA. They hope that their gene sequencing could help in several ways. Firstly, it will now be possible to clearly identify fakes from the real thing. Secondly, the insights into their DNA could help boost the truffle production, providing a clearer idea of why injecting spores into oak trees does not always result in growth.

The researchers have already discovered that the truffle’s DNA signature is effected by where it has grown, as well as that its distinctive taste comes from the fungus itself rather than any bacteria contained within. The researchers intend to create a ”truffle data bank” – an archive of specific truffle strains that could be selectively produced according to the subtle taste differences.

Related posts:

1. Sarlat’s “Feast of the Truffle” celebrates the ‘black diamond’
2. Scientific American reveals the hidden life of the Dordogne Diamond
3. Village’s first truffle festival a ‘resounding success’
4. Truffle museum opens in the Dordogne
5. New book explores ‘culinary adventures in the Dordogne’

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