Breathalysers

Starting in July 2012, it became obligatory for all vehicles (including motorbikes) driving in France to carry a breathalyser or alcohol-level test kit. The law will come into force on 1st July, to allow drivers enough time to buy a kit. From November 2012 there will be a fine of 11 Euros if you don’t have one in the car. Many people advise you to buy two because if you use one then you will still have a spare.

You can buy the breathalysers in supermarkets, garages and other outlets and they cost about 1 Euro each.

There is a grey area about their use because you are not obliged to test yourself each time you have a drink – the law is designed to encourage people to ensure they are not over the limit instead of just assuming they will be OK to drive.

Radar warning devices

Radar warning devices that warn about up-coming speed cameras are illegal in France (since November 2011). Driving in France with a sat-nav that shows speed camera map positions is not strictly illegal but it’s a grey area.

Mobile phone usage

You will be subject to an instant fine of 130 Euros if you are caught using a mobile phone while driving.

Children and seatbelts

Children under ten must travel in a back seat, unless there are no seat belts in the back, in which case they may strap into a front seat. Babies may be strapped into the front only if their baby seat is a rear-facing one.

Before driving in France – checklist

• Driving licence and ID – you must have a valid licence and carry your passport or ID card with you at all times.
• Ownership document – You must carry the ownership documentation of the car (or a car hire contract).
• Insurance proof – you must have your valid insurance certificate with you in the car.
• Hazard warning triangle – an approved triangle must be in the car.
• High visibility jacket – you must keep this in the car where the driver can put it on before leaving the vehicle.
• Spare bulbs – you are required to carry a spare set of bulbs (although many do not carry them).
• Deflected beam lights – because UK cars are on the “wrong” side of the road, the beam lights need to be deflected using patches.

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3. Driving on a French Holiday

Many of the sports that are popular in the UK, such as football, rugby and tennis, are also widely enjoyed in France. In fact, France is extremely competitive on a global scale in all of these sports and many more.

Playing sport on holiday

When you’re staying in a location for a short-time only, the opportunities to get involved in team sports are small. It is easier to get involved with individual sports. There are plenty of tennis courts to be found in the region and even the opportunity for private coaching.

Water sports, such as surfing, windsurfing and diving, are also available for those who are willing to make the two-hour journey to the West Coast. Water sports in the south of France are extremely popular, especially because of the blazing summer temperatures.

Closer to the Dordogne river itself, other sports such as cycling and rowing are readily available in a non-competitive format; representing two of the most popular activities for tourists.

Watching sport

Considering the huge popularity of sport in France, it shouldn’t be difficult to find a bar with live sport showing on the television. Any big games featuring the country’s top football and rugby teams could draw quite a crowd to the pubs, just as they would in England. In fact, the FA Premier League is also commonly watched by many French football fans on a regular basis.

If you fancy watching some live sport you might want to travel to Bordeaux where Bordeaux FC typically plays home games at least once a fortnight. The city’s rugby team has also enjoyed a fair amount of success in recent years.

Discussing sport with the locals

In England, sport is often the best common denominator when men try to initiate conversation and this is arguably no different in France. The French are typically as passionate about their local club team as the English and those who enjoy football or rugby should be able to find common ground with many of the locals in the Dordogne. Other sports which are popular in France but less so in England include basketball, cycling and handball.  

The Dordogne may not be best known as a sporting destination, but there is no reason why sporting fanatics can’t continue to enjoy their hobby whilst staying in the region.

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When you arrive in south west France for your holiday you will be immediately struck by the vast array of activities on offer, much of which centres around the region’s famous river. Kayaking, snorkelling, swimming and windsurfing will keep even the laziest among us occupied and entertained.

If you prefer to raise your heart rate out of the water, you could try rock climbing, abseiling or zip-wire experience at one of the adrenalin-pumping adventure parks. How about cycling along the river bank, fishing, dancing lessons, horse riding or simply taking a walk through the lush green countryside?

Alternatively, if you prefer both feet on the ground, you might like to explore the region by finding some running routes. This is a great way not only to get some exercise easily and cost-free, but it could provide access to places that other tourists don’t normally get to see. With that in mind, here are a couple of routes that have been suggested by visitors to the Dordogne who are also runners.

Challenging road run

Try a six mile trot from Limeuil to Tremolat, starting at the point where the D51 and D31 merge. This hilly run continues along the D31, Rue de la Poste, which is lined by dense forest. Upon reaching La Penetie, the mid point, turn and head back the way you came. This route should take about an hour and a half for runners of a reasonable standard.

Shorter route

For a slightly shorter route, try Castello, near Les Eyzies de Tayac Sirueil, starting at Château de Commarque and heading cross country toward Sireuil through the Grand Borgne. Carry along the D48 and fork right through Raufinoux until you reach Les Cugnes. This route is about four miles and should take around one hour. 

Running events

If it’s an event you are looking to take part in, check local papers of websites such as klikego.com to find races such as the Bergerac Trail de prats du Perigord in June, the Lamonzie Montastruc Jazz trail in August or the Trail de la foret in Biron in July.

Naturally, if you plan to go running on holiday you will need to pack the usual equipment, such as decent trainers and a weather-proof jacket alongside some more safety-conscious items – sun block, a whistle, an energy bar, water, torch and a map. It’s important to remember that this is unfamiliar territory, where every bend presents new landscape. Thus doing some research beforehand is essential. Otherwise, how will you know if vision-impairing low cloud descends in one location, that the gravel terrain of another intended route causes havoc to the ankles or other such runner’s nightmare? If you’re really keen you could always temporarily join a local running group, to ensure your run will be safe.

However you decide to do it, a run through the panoramic scenery of the Dordogne is freeing and eye-opening, revealing scenery and insight into French life that might ordinarily be missed. Plus you won’t have to worry about fighting those holiday pounds when you return home.

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The Dordogne is more tranquil, but it also offers everything you could want from a holiday – food, landscapes, architecture and culture.

Food
Home to the most exquisite truffles and foie gras, the Dordogne is renowned for its rich, delicious dishes. The area is big on walnuts, too, as well as goose. Of course, there are restaurants that stray away from traditional French food, but why would you want to head to those when you have the best of France right in front of you? You won’t want a large meal for breakfast, lunch and dinner though and there are plenty of places offering light crepes (sweet or savoury) to keep you going. Picture it – washing down a fresh cheese and ham crepe with a glass of fruity red wine. Heaven!

Landscapes
The region isn’t short of beautiful scenery and if you want to reap the best the region has to offer, there are a few parts you can visit. Simply walking between the area’s many villages will see you stumble across random landscapes. Beynac in particular is a beautiful village, boasting great views. Alternatively, taking a tour around the area’s many castles will see you slap bang in front of the most gorgeous scenery.

Architecture
Architecture lovers will not be disappointed. It has some fantastic castles, like Chateau des Milandes and Chateau Beynac. These medieval buildings are just gorgeous and with rich histories, will be sure to interest even any younger members of your group. However it is perhaps the real Dordogne that proves most beautiful when it comes to historic architecture – like the crumbling churches and houses that line its streets. Their rustic charm is enough to melt any heart and if you’re lucky, you’ll spot the few boasting the remains of ancient forts.

Culture
French culture overall is built on strong family values and families hold food as one of their biggest passions. It’s very much about enjoying life and each other, albeit in quite a private way. This may mean visitors to the Dordogne feel welcomed but not necessarily let into residents’ inner-most lives. That’s ok though, because they are polite enough – as long as you remember your manners at the dining table!

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For starters, there’s the La Coupole theatre, which offers something for every taste. In the past, the theatre has hosted such names as singer Pierre Perret, whose ubiquitously cheeky songwriting leaves audiences laughing and blushing! A tribute to Luis Mariano has also appeared, singing some of the late singer’s biggest hits – including ‘Mexico’, ‘Rossignol’ and ‘Knights of the Sky’. Recently, the Aquitaine Company presented a show celebrating France’s most popular songs throughout history and in a similar show, Rainbow Productions put on a French music programme.

It isn’t all about music at La Coupole, as some big names in comedy have appeared too – such as Lawrence Catry and Michael Gregorio. Virginia Hocq is due to appear soon too, as is Patrick Sebastian; the impersonated who has gripped the French audience by storm.

Other theatres in the Dordogne include Krakatoa and Espace Culturel du Pin Galant. The latter boasts everything from variety shows and world music performances, to dance acts. French singer Chimene Badi, the Company Alexandra n’Possee and Marone Maria are all names associated with the theatre, in addition to comedian Sophia Aram.

If you’re not interested in big belly laughs, the Bordeaux National Opera and Ballet House might be a better option. The opera has a history spanning over 100 years and its orchestra is filled with highly-trained, high-quality musicians. The latter takes part in many of France’s most prominent music festivals and covers everything from baroque to contemporary music. The opera’s artistic director, Kawme Ryan, leads the charge and it is funded by the Mayor of Bordeaux.

The national ballet is on the same high level when it comes to quality of performances. Covering a real widespread range of works – from ‘The Messiah’, ‘Adagietto’ and ‘The Four Seasons’ to ‘Coppelia’, ‘Don Quixote’, ‘The Nutcracker’ and ‘Giselle’ – the ballet is so good that it has been awarded the Serge Lifar previously. It has also been awarded Best Foreign Ballet whilst performing in Cuba.

There’s something for lovers of amateur theatre too though in amongst the Dordogne’s offering. The performers of Le Florida, a company based on 47000 Agen, often showcase their work in smaller shoes. Tickets are priced fairly and the shows are diverse. For example, one week it could be a performance from young rappers who have integrated their lives into their lyrics, but the next week Le Florida could showcase the work of a 1920s singer, like Anais. Expressionist rock has been known to make an appearance, in addition to Fleetwood Mac-inspired indie folks Theodore, Paul and Gabriel. More alternative projects like The Summer Camp are often on show too, which delve into things like the aesthetics of sound.

All in all, the Dordogne offers up a rich catalogue of performances – so you are sure to find something during your visit to meet your individual taste.

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Luckily for British admirers, it will soon be time for an orchid event that isn’t too far away. A trip to Salignac in the Périgord Noir region – which is easily made by ferry, car or air – could yield not simply a nice holiday but also a glimpse of some very special flowers.

From 28 April to 1 May, the annual Exotic Orchid Exhibition takes place in the gardens of Eyrignac Manor (Manoir d’Eyrignac). This is not simply a garden to wander around, though. To emphasise just how special this event is in terms of orchid growing, the Saturday is open only to dedicated orchid collectors.

However, the rest of the event is open to all, though on 30 April, the focus is on children, should you wish to bring little ones along. The organisers assert that gardeners of all ages and abilities will find something of interest at the event, whether its the workshops, lectures, exhibitions or orchid shopping opportunities. Another feature is a guided walk which allows visitors to see the orchids which are growing in the wild.

This year’s special attraction, local papers say, are the orchids which have been brought down from the Jardin de Luxembourg in Paris. This is the first time that orchid lovers in the Aquitaine have had the opportunity to see the array of orchids from this collection.

The gardens themselves are worth the journey alone. Reportedly, some 5,500 bulbs are planted each winter in order that the gardens plus surrounding woodland should be filled with daffodils, dahlias, hyacinths, narcissi and tulips. Over 700 white roses are planted in the White Garden, which usually bloom in May, prettily dotted around the box hedges and manicured lawns. However, the recent mild weather could mean that visitors to the Exotic Orchid Event might be treated to some early budding flowers.

Two defined botanical paths will carry visitors through the 200-hectare gardens, displaying it at its very best. The paths (one measuring 2.5km and the other 4.5km) both lead to a viewing platform which overlooks the garden, so don’t forget that camera. The Manor itself dates from the 17th Century and is situated within a closed courtyard, but the other gardens: French garden, avenue of hornbeams and kitchen garden are open to the public.

Visitors could then end their trip with a meal at the Manor’s restaurant, “Cote Jardins”, which offers views of the gardens from its outdoor seating area. The menu features foods produced from the Périgord region, local specialities including duck confit and foie gras. Those who like to try a little of everything might well prefer the gourmet tasting platters. Meanwhile, those with a sweet tooth can be sated by the mouth-watering range of pastries, sundaes and ice creams on offer.

The Exotic Orchid Exhibition is open from 10am to 7pm and tickets cost €3.00 for those aged 12 years and above.

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There are many restaurants in the area, for example Brantome’s Hotel-restaurant les Jardins le Brantome. A restaurant filled with character and warmth, it offers up a gourmet menu that is to die for. Boasting starters like caramelized turnip, foie gras and scallops, one could fill up on the first course alone. There’s much more to the menu than that though, with mains covering everything from tender lamb and sturgeon to crispy duck confit. Of course, a delicious cheeseboard is offered up to round up the meal, but for those with a sweet tooth, there are fresh deserts made daily that change with the chef’s fancy.

Gourmet food lovers are catered for well at L’Essential too, the Michelin-starred restaurant based at 24000 Perigueux. Rated as a “fantastic” and “perfect gem” of a restaurant by reviewers on Trip Advisor, the restaurant boasts dishes such as soft roasted asparagus, fish risottos, pigeon ravioli and pistachio-based sweet treats. However it isn’t just the food aficionados that are catered for in Dordogne territory, as there are plenty of budget offerings that are just as tempting.

For example, La Fourchette Verte – of the Sarlat-la-Caneda region – is said to be “unpretentious” and “a must-visit” by those who have been. it’s rated as being fairly inexpensive, so could be a great option for families and offers up wonderful organic good. With a range of vegetarian and meat-based options, there’s something for everyone. It has been said to provide a great alternative to the richer foods of the region, which might not be everyone’s first choice… or, they might just prefer some a bit lighter after a week of indulgence!

Also in the area is Chez le Gaulois, which boasts a menu filled with homely comfort food. Meats are cut as and when ordered, raclette is available for cheese lovers – or, if you fancy a bit of everything, the restaurant is much-loved for its variety platters with meats/cheeses. Its warm atmosphere is welcoming to parties of all sizes and the wine has been hailed as a perfect match for the tasty food.

Restaurant La Gabarre is another option for holiday-makers keen to explore the area’s culinary delights. Set in a very pretty location between Souillac and Sarlat, it sits on the exit from St Julien de Lampon. For those looking for something in-between blow-the-budget and watch-the-pennies level, Auberge Lou Peyrol might be a better option.

Labelled a “simply amazing French experience”, the restaurant has been described as being neither gourmet, high-class cuisine or on for the lowest budget. It offers an authentic menu of traditional food and welcoming, hard-working staff. The pork dish in particular is a favourite of visitors and the deserts decadent. The foie gras has been hailed as excellent, making it an ideal option for those trying the dish for the first time and although it’s not the easy restaurant to find in the car, it’s seemingly worth the trip.

And food is just one of the reasons why we Brits love France.

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Conversation

The nature of the popular tourist activities means that,  at some point, visitors will probably end up conversing with those who live in the region.

Although the majority of the locals are likely to speak French as a first language, it is certainly possible to get by without an extensive knowledge of this language. A basic grasp of French is normally enough as many French people can also speak a bit of English. After all, it is taught in most schools as a second language.

As with any locals of any region, many of the French are only too happy to speak about how they find living in the region, especially if the tourists are willing to make at least a small effort to use their native tongue. Excusez-moi, (excuse me) si’l vouz plait (please) and merci (thank you) will go a long way to being accepted in France, just as it does in England!

Friendliness

In some parts of the world, the French have gained an unfair reputation for being rude to tourists and to each other.

This is based largely on the fact that in French culture, it is rare to smile at a stranger immediately after meeting. Many other Western cultures smile upon meeting a stranger in order to be friendly although the French only smile when they really mean it. This can be misconstrued amongst those who are unfamiliar with French culture.   

The truth is that any culture will have people that are rude and unwelcoming and those who are especially friendly, and France is no different. In fact, many visitors to the Dordogne may find that the locals running tourist attractions are generally quite friendly to tourists as they rely on tourism in the region to make a living.

Expats

Of course, not everyone who lives in France was born in the country. In fact, it is one of the most popular regions for British expats to live in. There are a number of British expats running B&Bs or gites and a few owning online businesses or working as builders. Having once been new to the area themselves, the chances are that many of these may be willing to discuss the delights of the region.

Of course, there are limits to the friendships you can develop with the locals whilst you are on holiday – but taking the time to speak to those living around you could prove to be highly rewarding.

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The French have a great love of music and have fiercely protected their own music scene, ensuring that national acts/songs are not ousted by international, English-language music. You’ll be wrong if you think it’s all accordions, harmonicas or cringe-worthy ’Euro pop’.

You may know a few acts already – Edith Piaf, Maurice Chevalier and Serge Gainsbourg are well-known names who depict a certain era in French music with the addition of Johnny Hallyday; who was billed as the French answer to Elvis Presley. Why not stick some of their CDs in the car for the journey down to the Dordogne?

It’s almost a quarter of a century since Vanessa Paradis’s ‘Joe Le Taxi’ topped the charts, but recent times have seen a rise in French hip hop, techno and pop acts breaking through to international markets. Notable acts include Air, Cassius, Daft Punk and David Guetta.

Beyond what’s on the radio, visitors to the Dordogne will find a wealth of musical events taking place throughout the year. From huge festivals to the smallest of recitals, there is something to suit all tastes.

If your visit takes place in April, you’ll be able to attend one of many Easter concerts taking place across the region. The local l’office de tourisme should be able to provide details. You might even be in time to catch French Beatles tribute band, The Rabeats!

In May, the Pourpre Jazz Festival kicks off, featuring local and international acts. The event is split in two sections: ‘In’ which comprises performances by “the biggest names” and ‘Off’, a mixed programme of free concerts.

From July to August, the annual Bergerac Festival takes place; showcasing a range of ‘diverse’ acts, from classical to funk and everything in between. The entire town becomes a stage, with performances held in/around the old town, in Cadouin Abbey, Château de Biron, along the quayside and Monpazier Church. Expect orchestras, Spanish guitars, jazz bands, duelling pianists, Irish ballads, the Chinese lute and also some ballet thrown into the mix.

If honing your music ability is what you seek, then why not enrol at the Dordogne Jazz Summer School? All aspects of jazz are explored from a medieval castle in Monteton, encompassing vocals and “major jazz instruments; cumulating in improvised jam sessions. Beginners courses exist for jazz newcomers, while the more experienced could opt for an intensive course.

August to October sees the annual Périgord Noir music festival in Montignac. This year – the 30th – revolves around a theme of ‘fables and legends’, promising “a whole array of musical surprises”.  

Whether you want to have a go, be entertained, or just enjoy the splendour of live music, the Dordogne has plenty to satisfy your music desires! Channel your inner Edith Piaf and regret nothing by booking a trip. 

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As the capital of the region - some go so far as to call it the ‘heart’ of the Perigord Vert - Nontron is surrounded by lush green valleys and rippling streams. Nearby is the ‘acclaimed’ Perigord-Limousin National Park, which might be ideal for a picnic lunch once the town has been explored. Suffice to say, this is a trip for which you would not want to forget your camera.

The town’s biggest attraction is the 12th Century Château de Castelnaud, which dominates the skyline from its location atop a hill above the town. It was built on the banks of the Dordogne to face its rival, the Château de Beynac. The château payed a huge part in the Albigensian Crusades, under the government of Bernard de Casnac, but was eventually abandoned until fairly recently.

After three restoration projects, the château is now open to the public and home to an impressive, popular museum of medieval warfare. On display are life-sized reconstructions of weapons including a catapult and videos help explain the château’s role throughout history. Little boys – perhaps bigger ones too – will love it!

Beyond the château, the town itself is fairly quiet and a nice spot for those who want to escape the crowds. It revolves around the town hall, which is located in a pretty town square, replete with fountain. The town also features some architecturally interesting buildings, particularly along Rue Picard and Rue des Ecoles, where visitors can find medieval half-timbered buildings. The town ramparts, or remains of, can be found along Rue de Periguex.

The town is famed for its knife making, which uses the same methods that were established in the 15th Century. The workshop, in which you can watch knives being made, is well worth a visit and is ‘the oldest continually running cutlery forge in France’.

Those visiting in early April may be able to catch the Carnaval des Soufflets, or Bellows Festival. It may sound bizarre, but this tradition, which dates back to the Middle Ages, involves local people donning their night gowns, clogs, hats and masks, not forgetting their bellows. They then run through the town, squeezing the bellows in order to purify the air and rid it of evil spirits. The celebration usually coincides with the end of Lent.

For more conventional entertainment, Nontron holds several festivals throughout the summer and the outdoor swimming pool opens in the warmer months. Each Saturday there is a market, giving visitors the opportunity to sample local delicacies.

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