February 2nd, 2010 | 
Author: Earlier this month, the popular French culture magazine, France Today, explored the “gray gold” of France – the country’s caviar industry.
The English language publication begins by providing a potted history of the caviar industry and sturgeon (the species of fish that produces caviar) farming in France and Europe, as well as the source of the luxury foodstuff’s popularity among Europe’s upper class in the early 20th century.
After this broad overview of sturgeon farming and caviar production, writer Agnès Lascève discusses four of France’s biggest sturgeon farming companies, located on the tributaries of the Dordogne river and the nearby Girone Estuary.
Intriguingly, Lascève reports that each of the four companies claims to be the oldest. The caviar producers that can be found in the Dordogne include France’s largest, the appropriately named Sturgeon. They produce some 11 tons every year and market several different brands of the luxury delicacy from different species of the fish.
The Dordogne river is also the home of the second largest French caviar producer, Maison Prunier. They produce six tones annually and own two gourmet restaurants in Paris, as well as several boutiques in the city’s airports. They have several varieties, including the exclusively priced Paris selection which is available for only three months a year.
Perhaps the most rarefied producer of caviar in the Dordogne though is L’Esturgeonneire. They too own a renowned Parisien restaurant and reportedly set the benchmark for high quality caviar. Its house-label variety, Perlita, can be found in shops throughout France – but its reputation stems from a more unique product. Through a small company called Bellorr, L’Esturgeonneire produces fresh caviar filled with flecks of gold leaf, building the luxury of the delicacy to new levels.
Finally there is Caviar Gironde, which produces only one ton a year but is said to place quality above quantity. According to France Today, they were the first company to produce farm-raised caviar in 1993.
The full article can be found on the France Today website at http://francetoday.com/articles/2010/01/06/french_caviar_gray_gold.html.
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